Archive

Wanted

Please contact me if you have any of the watches in the list below for sale using you favourite social network.

This list will be updated regularly. You can also consider it my personal guide, although it is only focused on models within my reach. Personal (and undisputed for that matter) grails are not included.

Alain Silberstein

  • Krono Bauhaus – any model

Perhaps a weird personal preference, but I’ll always have a special place reserved for Alain Silberstein and his wild creations. One of the first to bring the ‘wink’ into into the often rigid world of watches. Fun pieces.

Audemars Piguet

  • Starwheel
  • Vintage Dress automatic
  • Vintage Royal Oak – including non-Jumbo

The dress watches, especially those with automatic movements are a discrete delight – of the highest quality, though not as much in the spotlight as their Patek counterparts and thus affordable. Royal Oaks are in a league of their own, but although the focus is on Jumbo’s, the smaller ones can be equally delightful and much more affordable. Starwheel will prove to be highly sought after in the coming years.

Benrus

  • Sky-chief
  • Type 1
  • Type 2

Off-the-radar except for die-hard collectors, but great in design and filled with history.

Breitling

  • Chronomat – 1984 to 1994, 81950 including moonphase and yachting models, A13047, A13048
  • Emergency (1) – any model / dial colour
  • Navitimer vintage – 806, 1806, 7806, 8806
  • Navitimer modern – notably Spatiographe

Early Chronomats are bargains at the moment, while playing an arguably important role in the resurrection of mechanical watches. The Emergency is a classic in the making, while the Navitimer is an icon like few others. The Spatiographe is so unique it deserves a mention. 

Eberhard

  • Vintage, in particular Scafograf and chronographs

While previously being mostly in focus with Italian collectors, rising prices of other well-known brands will cause early tool-watches like those of Eberhard to grow in demand.

Enicar

  • Vintage sports models, including (but not exclusive) Sherpa-Graph, Jet-Graph

Cool logo and high-quality watches – enough said right? Previously the realm of cognoscenti, Enicar will prove to rise to greater fame in the near future.

Fortis

  • B42 – Lemania 5100
  • Marinemaster – vintage

The B42 is a nice outsider. Great toolwatch design with a discontinued and well-respected movement and thus one to look out for. Vintage Marinemasters are plain stunning, whether the dual-crown version or the chronograph.

Gerald Genta

  • Disney-models

Whimsical and fun.

Glycine

  • Airman – vintage

The Airman has been a favourite of those in need of a tool-watch when it mattered. Now it’s great value compared to more sought-after brands, notwithstanding the fact that it has been on the radar of collectors for quite a while..

Heuer

  • Autavia – vintage
  • Carrera – vintage and re-editions
  • Monaco – vintage
  • Super-Professional

A great name with many classics. Vintage has been on the rise for quite a while now but still there is great value compared to Rolex and Omega. Rare versions will be increasing in value as knowledge spreads.

IWC

  • Aquatimer – vintage, 3536, Split-Minute, Deep One
  • Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar 3750
  • Ingenieur – vintage and modern up to (and thus including) 3227
  • Novecento
  • Pilot’s Chronograph 3705 and 3706
  • Portugieser Rattrapante, 5000, 3714 panda and reverse panda

Vintage IWC can be dull at times, although the Ingenieur and Aquatimer are the exceptions. Caliber 88 and 89 models are beautiful but not very exciting. Neo-vintage is interesting, especially early perpetuals, rattrapantes and ceramic watches -those that were somewhat shocking (in price or otherwise) at their time of introduction. Portugieser is a hit no matter what  version, although my focus for now is on the models listed.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

  • Master-Compressor Memovox
  • Master Calendar – discontinued 37mm
  • Master Moon – discontinued 37mm
  • Master Perpetual – discontinued 37mm
  • Memovox – vintage
  • Reverso – any generation; quartz exempted

For most of the early 2000’s, JLC was ahead of its game. Affordable and providing interesting complications at acceptable case sizes. These models will prove to increase in value.

Mido

  • Multifort vintage – including (but not exclusive) Datometer, Centrechrono

A brand that is not that exciting in present times, though did bring out some interesting, innovative and high-quality watches in the past.

Movado

  • Vintage chronographs M90 / M95
  • Vintage triple date

Stunning, charming, whimsical and unique. Another name that lost its path.

Longines

  • Vintage chronographs 13zn
  • Vintage chronographs 30ch
  • Vintage divers
  • Conquest Power Reserve

While nowadays ranked below Omega in the Swatch Group hierarchy, Longines once made some of the best watches out there. While hardly unnoticed, vintage still poses great value in many cases.

Omega

  • Flightmaster 910/ 911
  • Railmaster – modern & vintage
  • Seamaster – vintage & modern, including Plo-Prof
  • Speedmaster Professional- any model including so-called Pre-Pro, Pre-Moon, limited, special, numbered and country-specific models

Iconic designs, bulletproof movements and an abundance of designs and history at a price not near that of its main rival, Rolex. Buy now.

Panerai

  • Luminor – Unitas-powered, including Marina models

Slowly out-phased, the Unitas-powered models are what started the Panerai craze and Paneristi-hype. This is where it started – they’ll prove to be of everlasting value as prices (and complications) increase.

Rolex

  • Datejust – vintage up to (and thus including) generation 16000 and OysterQuartz 17000
  • Datejust Turn-O-Graph – so-called Thunderbird, any generation
  • Day-Date – vintage up to (and thus including) generation 18000
  • Daytona – vintage and modern
  • Explorer 1 – vintage and modern
  • Explorer 2 – vintage and modern up to 16570
  • GMT-Master – vintage and modern
  • Seadweller – vintage and modern
  • Submariner – vintage and modern
  • Yachtmaster

Neo-vintage and 36mm is where the value is to be had, as the sports-market has gone of the charts. Focus on rare and unusual dials for the DJ and DD models, complete sets for the neo-vintages and unpolished cases.

Tissot

  • Worldtimer – vintage
  • Chronographs – vintage

The Worldtimer by Tissot is one of the few affordable true worldtimers out there. At current value, a great buy. Vintage chronographs can be had at great value, but can prove to be tough sell in today’s market.

Tudor

  • Black Bay
  • Chronographs – vintage and modern, including so-called Big Block and Prince Chronograph
  • Monte Carlo
  • Submariner – vintage and modern

A mark on the rise. Quite a few nifty models but one must try not to to hyped-up – they are still somewhat the realm of die-hard cognoscenti and as such, a sale might not be as easy as imagined when reading Hodinkee comments.

Universal Geneve

  • Chronographs, – including but not exclusive Compur, Bi-Compax, Tri-Compax, Space Compax
  • Polerouter

Collectors favourite.

Vacheron Constatin

  • 222

Unusual, high-brow brand – simply awesome

Various

  • High-quality vintage chronographs in stainless steel
  • High-quality vintage dives with Jenny / Super-Compressor cases
  • High-quality triple calendars

High-quality watches no-matter-the-brand will be rising in value – case and movement manufacturers will prove to be increasingly well-known and important.

Wakmann

  • Triple-date chronograph

Exceedingly good value.

Zenith

  • Chronograph – vintage
  • El Primero – vintage
  • El Primero – modern and neo-vintage, notably so-called Rainbow and the Chronomaster-T

A mark searching for its own identity in recent times; vintage and neo-vintage however are often not only beautiful, but also good value.